August 15th, 17th & 23rd, 23h
First we started by verifying all the sealant inside the tanks. We swept each tank few times, filling any tightly hole we saw with sealant.
Then we went ahead with closing the tank, we put the baffle and z bars in with cleakos, then we went ahead filling all the holes with wet rivets. We used pop rivets for the center z bars and solid rivets for all the edges. Then we verified that the bottom internal corner stayed open, we put big blob of sealant in the outside corners, and we made sure that there is good fillets on all the edges.
Following, we put the closing lid and the fuel sander. Everything was set wet, including the screws.
After closing the tank, we waited a couple days, then we tested one of the tanks. I used the Vans testing kit to close the the fuel line, I attached a bike pump to the fuel drain, and I attached a ballon to vent line.
I pumped air in. Unfortunately there is a huge leak since the tank is not able to hold pressure. The leak is not from any of the seals we created, but from the Vans fuel tank cap/flange. The small seal in the fuel cap between the lid and the flange is not able to hold pressure So, we need to replace the fuel cap and maybe the flange.
The Vans fuel cap/flange used
August 4th & 9th, 15h
Next in the wing light topic is the landing light installation. The landing lights get installed in the landing light board using screws and springs, so that we can easily adjust orientation as desired.
Next was cutting the wing tips to install the lights. We did a series of small cuts using a Dremel, to ensure that we only remove the minimum while having ease of installation of the light boards. We did all the composite work of all the 4 wing tips in the same time. We also did some small adjustments to the boards, sanding some some sections of the edges, to allow for ease of installation.
August 3rd & 10th 13h
I followed on the work on the pitot heat assembly by riveting platenuts into the pitot heat controller. I decided to use platenuts, so that I will have an easy way to remove the pitot heat controller for service.
Then, I decided to cut down the tubes for the pitot tube. By having the tubes shorter, it will be way easier to remove the pitot tube in the future, for service.
As well, I worked on to the bellcrank assembly. I received the bell crank bushing, so I had all the parts. I had to disassemble the tiedown in order to fit the bushing in. Then I installed all the parts of the bellcrank and tightened everything to the torque settings, for both the left and right wings.
Following is the left bellcrank assembly with the pitot and AoA tubes and heat control wiring passing under the bellcrank.
Following is the bellcrank of the right wing, with the modification for the roll servo. I still need to add safely wire for the bolts for the roll servo, for which I have just ordered the tool.
Next, I primed all the roll control tubing, from both inside and outside.
For the roll servo, I finally received the crimping tool, so I crimped all the connections.
July 30th, 9h
I continued on the installation of the roll servo and tie down. First I attached the tie down to both the left and right wing, with all new hardware, setting all the torques correctly with the new torque wrench. Then I installed the roll servo into the right wing. Afterwards, I moved on to attaching the bellcranck, and I discovered that Vans forgot to ship me the bell crank bushings, so I ordered them. Then I moved on to the wiring, but I did not have the proper crimping tool, so I ordered one.
July 13th, 14th, 16th and 23rd, 12h
To get started in the roll servo, I needed to first fix the tie down assembly that was over torqued. So, I removed the tie down for both the left and the right wings, removed all the platenuts by removing all the rivets. Then riveted new plate nuts. Then primed. Afterwards, I will be re-attaching the tiedown with new hardware.
Then I moved on to the assembly of the roll servo. I decided to attach the limiting bracket, to ensure that the servo will never get into the null space, which will cause loss of roll authority. Then I assembled the rest of the hardware, which went pretty smoothly. Next is to attach the roll servo with the tie-down into the wings.
July 6th, 10th 18h
I finalized by decision on the avionics and decide to go with Dynon. So, I got all the part for the wing: heated pitot probe with AoA, servo for aileron and magnetometer.
I got started by the pitot probe. First I had to pick a place for the pitot probe. The option shown in the plans by Van does not work for the Dynon pitot probe because it will lead to interference between the aileron bell-crank and the pitot tube. I decided to put the pitot probe just to the left of the bell-crank assembly, to avoid interference while still being as close as possible to the center, between wing root and tip.
Then, I mounted the pitot tube mast into the wing by cutting out the mast slot in the wing skin, and drilling the attachment holes in the mast and the wing skin. As well, I drilled the bracket that attaches the mast to the rib and the skin to support the required loads.
Then I installed the pitot probe, which fits pretty well into the mast. I drilled 4 holes for #6-32 screws to attached the the pitot to the mast.
As well, I attached the pitot heat controller into the rib, right under the pitot tube, so that I don’t need to add any extension to the wires. The wires provided were more than plenty to reach between the pitot and the controller.
Then I moved on to the plumbing:
- I attached the wires between the pitot tube and the controller.
- I fluted the aluminum tubing for both the pitot and AoA.
- I connected the pitot and AoA aluminum tubing to the plastic tubing
- I past the plastic tubing through the tooling holes. The bushing provided were made for a 3/8inch holes, but my tooling holes are 5/8inch, so I need to buy some new bushings.
June 30th 2h
Installing the aileron brackets was a little tricky because of access. With two people we were able to get into all the bolt and nuts and set the torque values.
June 14th 3h
The next part to solder together was the control board. The soldering went on pretty smoothly.
June 30th 5h
I decided to go wit the flyLED wing tip lights. These light include all of the navigation, landing and taxi light in the wing tip. So, no need to cut the leading edges to install landing and taxi lights. I do have a little bit of concern about the lighting of the center of the runway, but I read that the lights are plenty. If not, an option is to add and extra light under the prop to light the center of the runway.
So, we got started today in the lights, by soldering all the part together and testing. All the LEDs work and the lights are very bright, even when using just 9V, instead of the 12V that will be used in the plane.